Why the Door Won't Come Down
Every opener has an invisible beam a few inches above the floor. If something breaks that beam, the door stops and goes back up. That safety feature keeps the door off kids, pets and cars.
When the sensors are dirty, knocked out of line or losing power, the opener thinks something is in the way and refuses to close.
Afternoon sun can do it too. Low sun shining straight into a sensor sometimes blinds it until the light moves.
Other Reasons
The door is binding. If the door drags in the track, the opener feels the resistance and reverses. That isn't a sensor problem. It's the door asking for help.
The travel limit is off. If the opener thinks the floor is lower than it is, it presses into the concrete and reverses. A power surge or lightning strike can scramble these settings.
A cut or chewed wire. The thin wires running to the sensors get stapled, nicked or chewed. A wiggle test near each sensor sometimes shows it.
Don't Turn the Force Up
It's tempting to turn up the opener's force so it powers through. That hides the real problem and weakens the safety reverse. A fair technician fixes the binding first, then sets the force where it belongs.
When It's More Than Sensors
If the door feels heavy or rough when you lift it by hand with the door closed and the release pulled, the trouble is in the door itself. Worn rollers, a weak spring or a bent track all make the opener give up.
See noisy doors for worn parts, broken springs for a heavy door, or opener repair if the door moves freely and the opener still quits.
A Door Stuck Open Is a Problem Here
An open garage lets in heat, rain and anyone walking by. Before a storm it's worse, since an open door lets wind into the house.
If the sensor checks don't work, a closed door with a working spring can be lowered by hand. Only pull the release on an open door if both springs are clearly whole. With a broken spring, an open door can drop hard. When in doubt, leave it and call.
Still won't close? Send the form or call (850) 555-0147.